Uganda

The Bwindi Impenetrable Forest UNESCO World Heritage site holds roughly half of all remaining mountain gorillas, with habituated family groups split across the Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga and Nkuringo trailheads; Mgahinga Gorilla National Park on the volcanic border runs a smaller programme through the Nyakagezi group. Trekking time ranges from two to eight hours through dense, often steep rainforest at altitudes between 1 160 and 2 607 m, with permits sold strictly through the Uganda Wildlife Authority and licensed operators and capped at one hour with the family on contact. Bwindi remains one of the most affordable mountain-gorilla experiences in Africa relative to Rwanda, and book months ahead for the high seasons.

Kibale Forest National Park has the densest primate population in Africa — thirteen species sharing one rainforest, including the largest population of habituated chimpanzees in East Africa, plus red colobus, l'Hoest's monkey and grey-cheeked mangabey. The standard one-hour permit follows a vocalising group at first light when chimps move on the forest floor; the full-day Habituation Experience accompanies researchers from morning to dusk and gives much more time on contact. Combine with the Bigodi Wetland community walk for the swamp-edge bird and primate list, and with Queen Elizabeth National Park to the south for a paired primate-and-savanna circuit.

Murchison Falls National Park is built around the moment the Nile compresses through a seven-metre rock gap before falling into the Albert Nile system below. The classic itinerary pairs the morning game drive on the north bank for Rothschild's giraffe, elephant, lion and Uganda kob with the afternoon boat ride beneath the falls — riverbanks heavy with hippo, crocodile and Goliath heron — and the optional climb to the top of the falls. The park is reached via a long but scenic drive from Kampala or via short charter flights to Pakuba, and combines easily with Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary on the way for the country's only white rhino sightings.

Queen Elizabeth National Park covers the western Rift Valley between Lake Edward and Lake George and is built around the boat trip on the Kazinga Channel — one of the densest hippo and crocodile populations on the continent, with elephant, buffalo and waterbird traffic on the banks. The southern Ishasha sector is famous for its tree-climbing lions, which spend the heat of the day draped in fig branches; the northern Kyambura Gorge offers a habituated-chimpanzee permit. The crater lakes of the Mweya peninsula and the salt-flats around Katwe close out a classic three-night itinerary.

Jinja, on the northern shore of Lake Victoria, sits at the official Source of the Nile and is East Africa's adventure capital. Grade-III to grade-V white-water rafting on the Victoria Nile, sunset cruises out to the source memorial, kayaking, river-boarding, bungee jumping and quad-biking are all within an hour of the town centre, with established outfits running year-round. Two hours' drive from Kampala, Jinja works as a high-energy bookend at either end of a longer trip and as a relaxed weekend in its own right thanks to its lakeside cafés and small craft scene.

The Rwenzori Mountains National Park, also a UNESCO World Heritage site, is the snow-capped «Mountains of the Moon» on the DRC border — Margherita Peak at 5 109 m is the third-highest summit in Africa. The seven-to-nine-day Central Circuit and the shorter Kilembe route both pass through the famous afro-alpine zone of giant lobelia and groundsel, glacial valleys and bog. For a non-trekking taster, the Bakonzo cultural villages around Kasese and the lower-altitude forest around Mahoma offer a fraction of the altitude and a strong cultural visit.

Lake Bunyonyi in the southwest, with its 29 small islands and terraced hillsides, is the standard decompression stop after Bwindi — kayaks, swimming (no bilharzia or hippos), small-boat island circuits and the famous Punishment Island story. Kampala itself rewards a full day for the Buganda royal sites of the Kasubi Tombs (UNESCO) and the Lubiri palace, the National Mosque viewpoint, the Ndere Cultural Centre evening shows, the booming live-music scene and a dedicated coffee culture that has emerged in Kololo and Bugolobi. Combined with the Entebbe Botanical Gardens and the Uganda Wildlife Education Centre on Lake Victoria, the capital and lake country round out a balanced Uganda itinerary.